On June 2, Prada announced Chinese director and actress Jia Ling as its latest brand ambassador. “With her consistent high-quality creative output, Jia Ling has become one of China’s most popular actresses,” Prada said.
Prada gets to the point. The word “consistent” aptly describes Jia’s career and public image. This choice marks a shift for Prada, which has previously selected several "inconsistent" brand ambassadors, highlighting the newfound importance of consistency.
The announcement received overwhelmingly positive feedback on social media. After all, Jia is admired for her almost flawless image—slim and vigorous. In this context, the Prada and Jia Ling collaboration is a notable success. However, the story of influencer marketing is more complex.
Through Prada's lens, numerous international luxury brands, including Dior, Chopard, Gucci, Rimowa, Versace, Chaumet, and Cartier, have established ties with well-known Chinese personalities, many of whom are even named "Global Brand Ambassadors."
In an era where Key Opinion Leaders (KOLs) dominate influencer marketing and Sales Associates (SAs) aspire to become KOLs, celebrity partnerships remain crucial for conveying brand values, establishing brand image, and driving business returns. Although luxury brands rarely disclose the direct impact of celebrity partnerships in their financial statements, it is widely acknowledged that superstars can influence organizational performance in both local and global markets.
Thus, the phrase "XX has named XX XX," despite its lack of originality, often makes headlines. Industry players must stay attuned to celebrity endorsement strategies and practices.
From a third-party observer's viewpoint, the broader question is: In the age of social media, how can brands and celebrities form partnerships that benefit both sides and achieve win-win success? Can these partnerships ensure consistency between the brand and the celebrity in both perception and commerce?
Currently, luxury brands typically adopt four celebrity endorsement strategies: the big crowd strategy, influencer marketing-oriented strategy, long-term endorsement strategy, and disruptive endorsement strategy.
Big crowd strategy is common among luxury industry titans with diverse business lines and extensive reach.For example, Louis Vuitton (LV) features a wide array of brand ambassadors varying in age, expertise, and cultural background, including senior actresses like Emma Stone, Cate Blanchett, and Léa Seydoux, rising stars like Elaine Zhong Chuxi, Jackson Wang Jia’er, and Zhou Dongyu, and athletes like Paralympian sprinter Timothée Adolphe and rugby player Antoine Dupont, in anticipation of the Paris 2024 Olympics.
In 2021, LV announced K-POP band BTS as its brand ambassadors, followed by C-POP band Teens in Times (TNT) in 2022. These collaborations with the two 7-member idol groups have significantly increased LV's visibility in China and South Korea, two markets with developed fan economies.
By diversifying its lineup of brand ambassadors, LV maintains a strong brand presence across various regional markets and among consumers of all ages and backgrounds. While catering to the elite's demand for high class, the brand also actively engages with the young consumer market.
Influencer marketing-oriented strategy, as its name implies, focuses on the commercial value of celebrity endorsements.For instance, Sean Xiao Zhan, known for his success as a popular star and livestream e-commerce influencer, has significantly boosted Tod’s sales.In 2021, Tod’s named Sean its brand ambassador, and two designer handbags (priced at RMB 4600 and RMB 10,600) featured in the TVC sold out within ten minutes. The Tod’s X Sean Xiao Zhan collection unveiled in 2022 also sold out in less than a minute.
Gucci also captured public attention by declaring Sean its brand ambassador in 2021.However, Sean's partnership with Tod’s has been more beneficial, particularly in reviving the brand's presence in China.
Compared to the previous two strategies, long-term endorsement is a safe bet. This is exemplified by the decade-long partnerships between Zhou Xun and Chanel, Charlize Theron and Dior, and Gong Li and L’Oréal. These long-term associations reinforce the brand image, even if they do not directly drive sales.
Luxury brands are increasingly considering risk management in selecting brand ambassadors in China. For example, Eileen Gu, the brand ambassador of LV and IWC, and Prada's partnerships with the Chinese Women’s National Football Team, Ma Long, Yang Shuyu, and Jia Ling, suggest that ambassadors from other fields offer better risk control and broader recognition, enhancing the brand image.
Disruptive strategy reflects a do-or-die attitude. In the competitive Chinese market, brands aware of the diminishing marginal utility effect often take bold risks. Being overshadowed or losing influence is the biggest concern for brands. Moreover, in an era where the fan effect still holds significant sway, intermediate luxury brands eager to stand out are advised to leverage celebrities to expand their business.
Versace, for instance, has bridged the gap with popular culture and celebrities, adopting a disruptive endorsement strategy to upgrade its presence in China. Versace's approach is characterized by boldness, groundbreaking moves, and co-creation.
On March 1, Versace announced Bai Jingting (GoodBai) as its global fragrance ambassador, causing a sensation.Given that only a little over a month had passed since Bai Jingting's controversial incident, many viewed Versace's decision to bypass the usual evaluation period and directly sign him as a bold move to break through.
The collaboration quickly became a most searched topic on Weibo, with the perfume TVC starring Bai viewed millions of times. The hashtag #BaiJingtingNamedVersaceGlobalFragrance Ambassador# has garnered over 560 million views. These figures underscore Bai's market potential.
Then, on May 21, Versace once again bypassed the evaluation period and "unexpectedly" announced Cai Xukun (Kun Cai) as their global brand ambassador, releasing a campaign featuring him. It's noteworthy that over the past year, Kun had been off the radar, with no partnerships with any luxury brands. As the first luxury brand to sign a contract with Kun upon his comeback, Versace struck a chord with his fans. Consequently, the breaking news went viral on China's social media that day.
So far, two posts on the brand’s official Weibo account and Kun's own Weibo account have been reposted over 1 million times, with the latter receiving as many as 24 million likes.
The hashtag #VersaceNamedCaiXukunGlobalBrandAmbassador# has garnered 730 million views and topped Weibo’s most searched rankings for 14 hours.
After nearly a year out of the public eye, Kun's high-profile comeback caused a sensation. A variety of "Kun style" items displayed in Versace's Tmall store sold out immediately after the announcement, including a leather jacket priced at RMB 34,900.In addition to the surge in online sales, the brand's brick-and-mortar stores were also swarmed with fans seeking Kun style items. Reports indicate that some Versace store staff overseas were even asked about the availability of these products.
The impressive communication and sales figures are a testament to Kun's strong fan loyalty, influence, and commercial power. Versace is well aware of the risks associated with capitalizing on a controversial celebrity. However, by taking this bold step, the brand aims for brighter prospects and a younger image in the Chinese market. It is no exaggeration to say that Versace will benefit from Kun’s fan effect and likely see a significant increase in market volume and sales in the coming quarters.
The partnership between Versace and Kun goes beyond merely featuring his face in shopping malls, stores, and billboards worldwide. It represents a win-win collaboration between a fashion brand with a rich history and a modern muse, co-creating content together.
Beyond the alignment of Kun's glamour with Versace's brand spirit, both parties share a mutual appreciation for music, elevating Kun’s role from brand endorser to creative partner. This collaboration model reflects Versace’s innovative approach to celebrity endorsements and its desire to engage in a creative dialogue with celebrities on an equal footing.
On June 3, Cai Xukun took center stage in a new Versace campaign, embodying the essence of Versace’s Mercury sneakers. An excerpt from the music video for Kun's original single "Afterglow" debuted in the campaign and was exclusively released on Versace’s website on June 5.To date, the video has garnered over 18 million views, with 1 million reposts and likes each. Kun's music video draws inspiration from Versace’s brand culture, adding an artistic touch to the brand's advertisement. This collaboration is a result of mutual "transformation" and positive influence.
In essence, the partnership between the brand and the celebrity has evolved into co-creation and integration. This is evidenced by Kun's original music featured in the brand’s advertisement and the Versace X celebrity collection launched in Europe and America. The collaboration fosters a deep, inextricable connection, marked by greater mutual understanding and loyalty.
Let’s take a look at another brand ambassador Rosy Zhao Lusi. In last November, Rosy became Versace’s global brand ambassador, and in February, the brand released the SS24 campaign featuring her.In the campaign, Rosy broke away from her "girl next door" image, presenting herself as a cool and chic woman.
This radical shift in Rosy’s image is naturally attributable to her partnership with Versace. The parties agreed on the "bad girl" style, and this experimental breakthrough in styling has made Rosy a focal point in the fashion scene. Unlocking or inspiring the potential of the brand ambassador is equally beneficial for furthering the partnership between Versace and Rosy.
Versace has a long history of integrating idol culture into its brand promotion. As early as in late 1970s, founder Gianni Versace set a trend with supermodels. In the 1980s, the brand pioneered by inviting actors and singers to grace fashion shows and walk the red carpet in Versace attire. These examples of win-win cooperation between Versace and stars have left a lasting impression. Additionally, the brand’s current Chief Creative Officer, Donatella Versace, has significantly influenced European and American pop culture. Idol culture has been essential in helping Versace make a name for itself and go global.
Versace is now adjusting and upgrading its celebrity endorsement strategies to stay current.From a commercial perspective, Versace has every reason to enhance its celebrity endorsement strategies. The brand hopes for celebrity-driven performance growth and market expansion, and young idols with market influence should have the right to engage in an equal dialogue with the brand. Whether through generated content or a new distinctive image, co-creation in any form paves the way for achieving commercial ambitions.
Moreover, the interactive cooperation model enables Versace and its brand ambassadors to develop a tighter bond. While it may seem that the brand is making way for its ambassadors, the collaboration actually empowers the brand, an advocate of sustainability, and ensures the consistency of its image.
The disruptive endorsement strategy brings tangible benefits, such as higher sales and brand volume, to Versace. More importantly, it highlights the brand's unconventional personality.
Homogeneous factors like product quality, service, and retailing are not enough to mark the unique identity of a luxury brand. For a luxury brand, "unparalleled brand personality" is crucial. In a market dominated by Gen Z and millennial consumers, lacking personality equates to having no appeal. Brands like Balenciaga, Maison Margiela, and Comme des Garçons have become hits due to their extraordinary brand personalities.
Luxury brands do not follow the same path as beauty brands, which often use attractive or friendly faces to capture the market. Instead, they seek to manifest their own style or personality through a multi-faceted brand ambassador .Looks are secondary; what truly matters is the harmony between the brand ambassador's unique attributes and the brand's spirit. This includes tapping into the hidden potential of the brand ambassador, as seen in the co-creation of music with Cai Xukun and the revelation of Rosy Zhao Lusi's cool girl look. Deep interaction gives consumers a glimpse of the brand’s exceptional personality and enhances the strategy's effectiveness in boosting brand performance.
However, it is now evident to brands that celebrity endorsement, in any form, is merely a tool. While celebrities are crucial to the development of luxury brands in China, the market has entered a stage of rational adjustment. Under these circumstances, brands must reconsider how to use and optimize celebrity endorsement strategies or explore other means beyond endorsement.