Jonathan Brinbaum：Bulgari Parfums Blend Timeless Classic Appeal with Ongoing Evolution

From November 23 to November 26, Bulgari Parfums hosted an exclusive exhibition called "Reveal Your Light" at Shanghai's teamLab Borderless, showcasing the revamped Omnia collection.

 

As guests entered, they were greeted by a neon-lit corridor, offering diverse interpretations of "light". This setup was a prelude to a journey of self-discovery, inspiring visitors to ponder “To me, what is light?” as they explored the crystal-inspired path.

 

 

The second floor of the museum was transformed into a realm of fantasy, with each of the three Omnia parfums—AMETHYSTE, CRYSTALLINE, and CORAL—having their own unique area. These spaces were intricately designed to match the color and aroma of each fragrance, interconnected by vibrant, whimsical displays of floral cascades and mythical creatures adorning the walls and ceilings.

 

 

 

The experience was undeniably immersive, showcasing Bulgari's commitment to creativity and excellence in this exhibition.

 

The grand opening was graced by a mix of media, bloggers, house friends, and Jonathan Brinbaum, the Global Managing Director of Bulgari Parfums.

 

 

This event marked the first major revamp of the Omnia collection in over two decades. The scale and elegance of the exhibition, alongside the collection's prominence in Bulgari's portfolio, naturally lead to speculations about a new era for Bulgari parfums.

 

Intrigued by these prospects, we engaged in a conversation with Jonathan Brinbaum to explore further.

 

ConCall: Bulgari's Omnia collection is well-known as a classic collection for the brand. What makes the newly launched products different from the ones we are familiar with?

 

Jonathan Brinbaum: In the past two decades, the Omnia series has always been the "leading lady" in Bulgari's fragrance products, the best-selling series that has withstood the test of time and the market. Therefore, in the process of this renewal launch, we did not make any adjustments to its fragrance but gave it a more exquisite and sophisticated appearance that aligns with the current aesthetic of luxury perfumes. From the perspectives of scent and texture, it remains the same, but with a more design-conscious and modern touch.

 

It's important to note that not every fragrance product in the world of perfumes can have such enduring allure, so its success also proves Bulgari's ability to create and maintain classic works.

 

ConCall: In Bulgari's brand development plan, what position does the fragrance business hold, and what mission has it been assigned?

 

Jonathan Brinbaum: This is also one of the questions I have been constantly asking myself. Bulgari is a large luxury brand with a diverse range of product categories. It originated from high-end jewelry and has now achieved success in watches, handbags, fragrances, and the hotel industry. I sincerely believe that the success of a luxury brand is not only about offering exquisite products to consumers but more importantly about the "experience". Bulgari's diverse products combine to provide consumers with a rich and beautiful experience.

 

In this comprehensive system, the role of fragrance products is to serve as the "entry point" for consumers. The original intention of creating the Omnia series is to encourage young women to bravely explore the world of luxury fragrance. Through fragrance products, Bulgari efficiently reaches a large number of consumers, including not only loyal fans who consistently repurchase but also young people entering the world of luxury for the first time. For these young individuals, their magnificent journey in the world of Bulgari begins with fragrance products. From this perspective, the Parfums division is the "chief recruitment officer" for the entire Bulgari brand. My team and I are proud to have such a role. This includes the grand event held for the launch of the renewed products, which is our way of extending an exclusive invitation to all Chinese consumers: Welcome to the world of Bulgari.

 

ConCall: Through our observation of a substantial amount of User-Generated Content (UGC) on social media, we have found that increasingly sophisticated Chinese consumers have independently established a framework for discussing and evaluating fragrance products. For instance, they use labels such as "commercial fragrance", "exclusive scent", "niche fragrance", etc., to categorize fragrance products and use these labels as the basis for evaluating specific products. What are your thoughts on this trend? If you were to give a label to Bulgari fragrances, what would it be?

 

Jonathan Brinbaum: Indeed, even as someone with over twenty years of industry experience, I am amazed by the sophistication and enthusiasm of contemporary Chinese consumers for fragrance products. Having such highly sophisticated consumers is something that Bulgari fragrances take great pride in! We have also noticed the success of Chinese domestic fragrance brands such as To Summer and Documents, which is a very positive development. The diversity of brands flourishing in the market makes it more prosperous and filled with potential.

 

Personally, I am not particularly inclined to label a specific product. However, from the perspective of effective communication with consumers, I must emphasize that Bulgari fragrances are luxury products. What we offer to consumers are high-end fragrance products; it is both our DNA and our direction for development. Bulgari fragrances are both classic and continually evolving and upgrading, as seen in the renewed Omnia series. Continuous development ensures that we always maintain a leading position in the world of luxury fragrance.

 

ConCall: "The combination of product strength and marketing power" is indispensable for all consumer brands striving to make significant progress in China. The creativity and actions in marketing, in particular, require precise alignment with the interests of local consumers. How does Bulgari Fragrances HQ view the uniqueness of the Chinese market? Is there a specific focus on "localization" in terms of thinking and decision-making for the Chinese market?

 

Jonathan Brinbaum: As part of the global luxury brand Bulgari, we prefer to organically integrate the brand's own DNA with Chinese culture at the right time and place, through appropriate means.

 

Almost simultaneously with fragrance events, Bulgari hosted an event showcasing the new Mediterranean high-end jewelry and luxury watch series at the Yuz Museum in Shanghai. A dedicated segment expressed Bulgari's praise and respect for the fusion of Eastern and Western civilizations. When an international brand seeks to convey "care" for a local market, the most sincere way is through genuine respect from the heart to action.

 

For Bulgari Parfums, rather than a simple approach, we collaborate with local celebrities and artists to express shared sentiments across different cultures using a universal artistic language – as seen in the use of light and floral elements in the renewed Omnia Collection event. As part of the Bulgari brand, the fragrance department adheres to the brand's unified principles and values, while also having our own unique way of expression.

 

ConCall: Collaborating with distributors was once the optimal choice for international brands entering the Chinese market. However, in recent years, we frequently see more and more brands shifting towards a direct retail model. It seems that Bulgari Fragrances is also undergoing this process?

 

Jonathan Brinbaum: You've observed correctly. At the end of 2022, we completed the transition from a distributor model to a Direct-to-Consumer (DTC) model, which is a significant and bold step. For niche or luxury fragrance brands, DTC is the only way to gain better control, receive more direct market feedback, and provide superior service to consumers, thus facilitating long-term stable development.

 

Over the past four years, Bulgari fragrances have seen a 75% reduction in distribution, with our point of sales decreasing from 25,000 to 7,000. However, all of this is worthwhile because we prioritize the quality of channels rather than mere quantity. Given the vast geographical expanse of the Chinese market, our strategy is gradual. In major cities, we have complete control, while in other areas, we still consider collaboration with selected distributors—those who skillfully operate in local markets and truly understand "who Bulgari is". This model differs fundamentally from the traditional hierarchical distributor model.

 

ConCall: In the coming years, what significant initiatives can we expect from Bulgari Fragrances in the Chinese market?

 

Jonathan Brinbaum: Consolidating and enhancing our position in the luxury fragrance market is the core goal for Bulgari Parfums. In addition to the well-known series familiar to consumers, we are considering expanding further into niche categories, such as body care products. At the same time, we will strengthen the connection and overall coherence between fragrances and the entire Bulgari brand. As mentioned earlier, we aim to use fragrance products to help consumers embark on a journey within the world of Bulgari.

 

Specifically for the Chinese market, combining the DTC (direct-to-consumer) operational model with flexible and ongoing market activities, we will continue to strengthen the organic integration with the local market.

 

Perhaps in 2025, everyone will witness something exciting, and at that time, we can engage in a more in-depth conversation.